Please move this if I have posted in wrong place
Around 8'30 you comment the length of the resistance wire makes a difference. If you want to be really spot-on, just borrow/buy a cheapo multimeter (under a fiver off ebay) and do the following:
1) Set the meter to measure ohms
2) Do the first twist with the zero resistance (ZR) wire as per video
3) Hold one probe (doesn't matter which, red or black) to the ZR wire.
4) Touch the other probe to the resistance wire just past the twisted join, and slowly slide it down the resistance wire away from the twist. The ohms reading will start to increase.
When you hit the exact resistance you want, thats where you start the second twist to the other piece of ZR wire. Measure it and write it down for future reference.
The number of turns makes no difference to the resistance, that is purely based on the actual length of R wire between the connections (hence measuring it before you join it up), obviously the more of the R wire is touching the wick, the more efficient it will be, so if you leave massive long tails from the wick coil to the terminals, it will be the right resistance but have very low efficiency, this will depend on your attys terminal spacing.
Coils make a difference for heat spread, so as long as they are neat and not touching, you can do however many turns looks neatest, or fits your wick best, but don't space them too wide.
This will give a lot more precision and uniformity between your coils and saves guesswork. It also allows you to properly experiment with different resistances (coil impedance) til you find the sweet spot for your chosen atty.
Hope this helps.
